Corvettes, especially the newer ones, seem to have their share of battery problems.  From batteries that leak corrosive electrolyte onto computers mounted right under the batteries to batteries that go dead if the car sits for a few weeks.  Something that I never liked was that when disconnecting the battery to work on electrics, the connection between the cable and terminal would never break "clean", I could hear the various relays etc clicking away while I loosened the cable.  Can't be good for the electronics.  This happens even with the key out of the ignition.  Never disconnect or boost the battery with the ignition turned on, it might prove expensive because of the voltage spikes!!

Battery Switch

I got around this problem by installing a battery "master switch".  They can be bought at most auto supplies.

The switch goes on the negative terminal.  Now, when I want to disconnect the battery, I make sure the key is off and simply loosen that black plastic knob you see in the centre of the switch by a quarter turn and the circuit is broken nice and cleanly!!  If you want everything dead, you would take the fuse out of the by-pass before you turn the knob.

What's the fuse for??  Well, it also works as kind of an "anti-theft" switch.  The red wire you see has a 20 amp fuse in it which by-passes the open switch.  The fused by-pass keeps the alarm, DCM, radio etc. energized even though the switch is open. When the knob is loose, the car can't be started because the main circuit is open.  If you try to crank, the 20 amp fuse blows.  If you are real paranoid, you can screw the black knob right off and take it with you into the motel or whatever.  Might keep a joy riding kid from stealing your car!!

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Battery Maintainer

Many people purchase a Battery Tender(TM) to keep the battery charged while the car is being stored for the winter etc.  I'm sure that this unit is an excellent unit, but it is very pricey.  What you're looking at here is simply a "float" type of battery charger which can be left hooked up to the battery for an indefinite time without worrying about over-charging the battery.  Chargers of this type have been used for years by motorcycle owners who store their bikes for the winter.  This one has a maximum amperage of 1.5 amps.  I found this unit sold at Wal-Mart to do the job for me for half the price of a "name brand" unit.  I bought one last year and another one this year so I don't have to be swapping one back and forth.

This little unit sells for half the price of a "Battery Tender(TM)" and does everything the Tender does.  One feature that I like on this unit is I can select 6 or 12 volts!!  I can use it on my Durant with it's 6 volt battery.

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Adjust Parking Brake Shoes

It seems many C5's have a poor parking brake.  If you are driving a 6 speed, get in the habit of leaving the transmission in gear when you park the car!!  Automatics don't have the same problem because the transmission has "PARK".  Their may be a couple of reasons for a poor parking brake, one of them being the parking brake shoes themselves are out of adjustment for some reason.  Unless you've been driving with the parking brake partially on, the shoe should last the life of the car.  They may be out of adjustment because of a faulty self-adjusting pawl which is located on the handle itself.  I haven't looked into the handle problem yet, but I did set-up the parking brake shoes seeing as I had the caliper off to paint, it was just a bit more work to adjust the shoes.

1.  After the wheel is removed, use a C-clamp to force the caliper pistons back into their bore a bit.  This makes it easier to slip the caliper off and on the rotor.  You'll need two wrenches to remove the caliper guide pin bolts. One wrench to hold the guide and another to remove the bolt.  Once the bolts are out, simply lift the caliper off the rotor and place the caliper up on the A-arms in such a way that it can't fall.  You don't have to disconnect the hydraulic line!!!!

2. The caliper support bracket has to be removed next using a 21 mm socket, six point if possible, and a LONG bar.  If you don't have a bar long enough to give you the leverage needed, use your shorter bar with a pipe over the handle.  If  you don't have a 21 mm socket, a slightly worn 13/16" will do the job.  These two bolts are tight and have Red Loctite on them.  Be careful the support doesn't fall when you take the bolts out.  Lift the support off and set it in a safe spot.

3. The rotor maybe difficult to remove because of rust between the rotor hat and axle flange.  Several ways to remove a stubborn rotor, first thing I'd try is a three pound hammer and give the rotor hat several good belts between the wheel studs.  Watch you don't hit a stud!!!  Put the wheel nuts back on the studs if your aim is poor.  Very often, the shock from the hammer will break the rust and the rotor will come free from the flange.  Use the hammer between different studs and keeping a slight outward pull on the rotor while using the hammer may help too.  If the hammer method won't break the rotor free, a slight amount of heat, a good propane torch is enough, applied around the studs may cause the hat to break free of the rust.  If the shoes have worn into the drum on the back of the rotor or because of rust build-up on the unworn drum surface, you may have to wiggle the rotor off the parking brake shoe once the rotor is loose.

Note the star wheel adjuster.  By turning the adjuster, you can expand or contract the shoe.

4. Use some emery cloth, sand the lining, just enough to remove any glaze, and use some emery cloth to sand the drum friction surface and get the unworn lip on the drum cleaned up so the rotor/drum will slip over the lining easily.  When I did my car, I turned the adjuster OUT 5 clicks and tried the rotor/drum over the shoes.  No drag.  I gave the adjuster another 5 clicks out.  No drag.  Finally, after 15 clicks out, the drum fit snuggly over the shoe.  This snugness eased off a bit when the wheels were put back on and everything was centered up the way it should be.

5.  Clean up the mounting surfaces on the caliper support bracket, place a couple of drops of Red Loctite on the bolts, install support bracket and bolts, torque them to 125 lb. ft..  That's tight!!

6. Make sure the caliper guides are nice and free, lube them with some good synthetic caliper lube, such as made by Permatex if necessary.  Re-install the caliper and pads, put a drop or two of Red Loctite on the guide bolts, install the bolts and torque to 23 lb. ft..

7.  Replace the wheel assembly over the studs, install the wheel nuts and using a torque wrench, tighten the wheel nuts to 100 lb. ft. using three passes (30, 60, 100) in a criss-cross sequence.

If your parking brake handle used to come away up and wouldn't hold on the slightest hill, you will be impressed with the difference.  Try the brake on a hill to make sure it works well and that it's releasing completely.  The question now is, why was it so far out of adjustment?  Another day, I'm going to look into the adjuster pawl on the parking brake lever to make sure it's not hung up. 

This stuff about the parking brake adjusting itself if you apply the parking brake while backing up is a crock!!  When you were adjusting the parking brake, did you see any mechanism that would adjust the shoe automatically?  I sure didn't.  I think the only automatic adjustment available is in the parking brake lever.  That's a job for another day though!

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Service Parking Brake Lever

I've seen a number of postings in the Corvette Forum (CF) that describe taking the console off to service the parking brake pawl on the parking brake lever.  If you want to take the console right off, here's some excellent instructions: if the link doesn't work when you click on it, paste it into your browser.

 http://www.vetteessentials.com/   and then select the instruction page for replacing the parking brake boot.

I think the only reason that the console has to be moved is to let you take the boot right off the parking brake lever.  I'm sure that taking the console off will make the job easier, but I don't think that it is necessary just to check the pawl.  By taking the passenger seat out, the carpeting on the tunnel can be pulled down enough to let you remove the fasteners holding the parking brake to the tunnel and pull the bottom of the lever mechanism out enough that you can check/service the pawl.  If you find that the pawl is really stuck, you can always take the console off after the fact.  The console has to be lifted/moved enough to let you undo the fasteners that hold the boot in place.  In my case, I found that the pawl was not stuck or sticking.  Maybe they changed the way they lubed in for 2001.  There was no sign of any kind of hardened grease hanging things up at all.  The spring loaded mechanism and pawl were dry, clean and free to operate.  I ended up servicing the pawl assembly and putting it all back together.  At least I know that this aspect of the parking brake is good!!!

1.  Use the seat adjuster to position the passenger seat so you can get at both the front and rear seat fasteners.  If you disconnect the battery at this point, you can leave the door open and not worry about the battery.  Tilt the seat back ahead and remove the two rear nuts using a 15 mm socket.  On the front of the seat, remove the two plastic nut covers then the 15 mm socket to remove the front nuts.  Lift the front of the seat to tilt it back and disconnect one electrical plug.  Lift the seat out and put it down where you won't trip over it.

2.  The tunnel carpet is fastened to the boot with velcro.  Pull the carpet down at his point and then work towards the front of the carpet.  The carpet will slip out from under the console with no difficulty.  Working towards the rear, not much carpet will come out, but enough will to let you do the next steps.  I used a chunk of 2x4 to hold the carpet away from the tunnel to let me work behind it.

3.  Using a #40 torx socket, remove the three fasteners that hold the parking brake mechanism to the tunnel.  Putting your hand under the bottom of the mechanism, pull it out and up as far as the boot will allow you to without putting a strain on anything.  You may want to disconnect the parking brake light switch, you don't have to though.  Put something (I used the ratchet) between the mechanism and the tunnel to keep the mechanism out.

4.  Place a mirror between the tunnel and the park brake mechanism in such a way that you can very clearly see the pawl.  Check for old sticky grease or a possible broken or displaced spring.  Reach in behind and feel the pawl for free movement.  It should pivot freely with no stickiness.  Apply the parking brake slightly, the pawl should engage the teeth with no difficulty.  In my case, the pawl was free and was working as it should.  Regardless, I sprayed it liberally with ... you guessed it ... WD40, and worked the pawl back and forth letting it snap back into place when I pulled it away from the teeth.  The area where the parking brake handle is located is pretty clean and dust free, so I used engine oil to give it it's final lubrication before replacing the unit.  No grease to harden up and cause a problem down the road!

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A problem that seems to crop up on many 'vettes is the door lock not responding to the FOB.  In my case, the drivers door would not lock when the FOB was used.  Same problem with both FOB's and the lock works properly in all other respects.  You could hear a click from the door and the alarm would activate, but the door wouldn't be locked.  I had to look inside and see if the door lock lever was sticking out or not.  You didn't dare try the handle because if it was unlocked, the alarm would go off when you lifted the handle.  Talk about embarrassing!!!!  If I was to lock the door from the inside before closing the door or use the key to lock the door, the FOB would unlock it no problem.

Because I would hear a click when trying to lock the door, it seemed that a relay was closing BUT a connection was not being made through the relay contacts.  This relay, one of three, is located on the Door Control Module circuit board, a little item that in Canada will set you back close $400.00  The alternative?  Purchase a replacement relay from an electronics supply shop for $1.78 and replace the relay yourself!!!!

I'd like to thank  members of the Corvette Forum who posted information and pictures of the DCM circuit board, it sure made life easier.  The Corvette Forum is an excellent site for getting and sharing Corvette information.  Click here  Corvette Forum  to go to the site.

From what I have seen so far, there are two possible relays and a third relay which can be used as a replacement.

JSM1-12V-4 which has a rated capacity of 10 amps

JSM1E-12V-5-H15 which was on my board, I couldn't find any information on this relay.

JSM1-12V-5 which is rated at 15 amps

The -4 and the -5 have the same specs except for the higher capacity of the -5

I purchased the JSM1-12V-5 from a Canadian supplier, Electro Sonic.  The cost was $1.78 each.  I also bought some solder wick from them, 5 feet for $2.75  I must have used 2 inches of it!!  Like we're not talking big dollars here!  Electro Sonic can be reached at www.e-sonic.com or 1-800-56-SONIC

The most difficult part of this job is the de-soldering.  What I'd suggest you do is enter de-solder into Google and then take your pick.  There are some excellent sites that show how to go about de-soldering.  It's been suggested in the Forum, a person might be better off to find an electronics repair shop which will swap the relays for you for a price.  I chose to tackle it myself.

Besides the tools for getting into the door, you will need a suitable soldering pencil/gun and something to de-solder with.  I started out with a 33 watt soldering pencil but had very little luck with it.  I ended up using a larger soldering gun with a small tip, wet the solder, got the gun out of the way and de-soldered.  I don't think the larger gun will cause any damage, as long as you get in and out with it.  The solder simply didn't melt quickly enough with the 33 watt.  The de-solder suction tool is used to suck the molten solder up and the solder wick will draw the hot solder onto itself when the wick is brought up to temperature.  I used both methods.

A spring loaded de-solder vacuum tool and a roll of "solder wick", simply a length of fluxed copper braid which will attract wet solder into itself when the wick and the solder are at the correct temperatures.

1.  Taking the door panel off is pretty straight forward.  Before starting, I disconnect the battery.  Better to be safe then sorry!!  If you go to  http://www.vetteessentials.com/ , under Installation Instructions, select the one for new door handles.  Something that will make the job a little easier is an inexpensive "Door Panel Removal Tool".  They can be bought in most auto supply shops for a few bucks.  It's like a wide fork and makes pulling the male panel clip out of the female that much easier.  When you are lifting the door panel up, after everything is undone, it takes a fair pull/push, but it will come!

This forked tool will pry the clip out of place with less chance of damaging the clip or panel.

This is one of three upper clips that hold the door panel to the top of the door frame.  They are tight!!

2.  With the door panel off, you will see the DCM  holder.  All the terminals are colour coded.  Remove the two screws that mount the unit to the door.  Be sure you release the lock on the terminal plug before you pull!

Once the terminals are off, flip the latches and the circuit board can be lifted out.

Three relays on the left, bottom one is the locking relay, the middle relay is the unlock relay.

3.  Use something like an Exacto knife to cut the silicone sealer around the relay.  Scrape the sealer off the solder joints.  Remove the faulty relay(s) using the de-solder tool/wick.  When soldering the new relay in place, use a high quality rosin core radio/electronics solder.  DO NOT USE AN ACID FLUX SOLDER!!!!  Using a tooth pick and clear silicone to reseal the relay and solder joints.

This is my old faulty relay.  Notice the heavy black arcing on what is the lower contact.  This is what causes the intermittent operation of the relay.  By carefully cutting into the relay, a person could attempt cleaning the contacts with sandpaper without taking the relay off the circuit board. 

4.  Once the relay has been replaced, place the circuit board back into it's holder, tighten the holder  in place, re-connect the colour coded terminals, replace the door panel and re-connect the battery.

Notice the new locking relay, bottom left.  It takes a bit of time and effort but it saves the bigger part of $400!!!!

Besides, what else are you going to do in the winter here in Canada!!!!

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